South Central Alaska
By Jaimy de Vries
After exploring the south, we continued our road trip to south-central Alaska. This includes Anchorage and the Mat-su Valley. A place full of mountains, glaciers and tons of wildlife. The weather was as its worst when we visited South Central Alaska, but that didn’t (always) spoil the fun. There was a lot to do indoor and we did had some days with nice weather.
The drive to Anchorage was very beautiful. We left the hilly landscape of the South-West Kenai Peninsula with lots of fireweed to a big mountain landscape. Eventually we reached the bay of Anchorage which offered a very scenic drive along the Turnagain Arm – a dramatic 50 mile (80 km) long fjord off the Cook inlet. We had a spectacular view with mountains plunging down to the water. A nice stop is the Beluga point. Beluga whales (means in Russian: the white ones) where commonly seen here in the summer, but there population has been declining rapidly in recent years.
Anchorage
After a drive of more than 5 hours we arrived in Anchorage. Anchorage is Alaska’s largest city, with a population of 350.000 people and has a major role as a commercial and transportation hub. It was a bit to get used too, driving in a crowded place again. All the other roads in the south were just so quiet. But we didn’t stay in Anchorage itself, we drove a little bit further to Eagle River. Where it’s more quiet and closer to the mountains. Later in the afternoon we arrived at our microtel (motel/hotel). We had a big room with a couch and a small kitchen with a microwave. But we especially loved having a private bathroom again! Now we didn’t need to go outside in the dark & cold and change to encounter wildlife to use the toilet! A small thing we’d come to appreciate a lot while traveling. There was breakfast included, we were excited. But it turns out breakfast was quite horrible. “But hey! Maybe we were just a bit spoiled after having many good breakfast’s at the cruise”
Eagle River is a nice town next to the highway and close to Anchorage. It’s located in the Chugach State park and therefore lots of hiking opportunities. But the weather has been quite S***. Fall has just started early this year, as many Alaskans said. Well we didn’t went to Alaska for nice weather, but with showers all day it’s not very comfortable to go outdoors. And besides not safe to go hiking. But luckily we had a nice hotel room and things to do indoor, like shopping downtown and visiting some Thrift shops in search for a hidden treasure. Unfortunate we haven’t found any so far. What we also liked to do with this weather, is just driving around residential areas. We saw many typical American houses and streets. Just like in the movies with big garages and in the center a basketball rack. Americans are probably really proud of their country, everyone has a U.S. flag at their property.
Crazy hat at thrift shops
Native Alaskans
We went to the Alaska heritage native museum. It was quite expensive $29 per person. But with the tour and all the things we learned about the natives, it was worth it. At the museum you can take a tour through all the six houses representing 11 major cultural native groups that transported us back in time. We heard stories of the regions people, their relationship to the land and how they adapted and thrived over the centuries. We learned for example that the northern clans made a zig-zag entrance to keep the bears out? Why? Well they can’t see depth and bump there head on a wall and then walk back. Quite cool that they figured that out right?
If you want to learn more about the natives, check my blog post about the Native Americans (still in the making).
Totempole of the Tlinget native clan.
Underground house, better suited for the harsh weather conditions.
Rain jacket made out of the stomach of seals.
Whale baleen used as an instrument for….??
Hiking Chugach State Park
We also had some good days where it was dry and sometimes even sunny. On those days we decided to explore the Chugach State Park. This is America’s third largest state park. It’s surrounded by the Alaska range and the Wrangelland Chugach mountains, what makes it a fabulous setting for hiking. And that’s how we explored this area: by hiking. There are lots of wildlife to see here too: moose, black & brown bears, mountain goats, marmots and other smaller animals.
We went on the South Fork Trail that leads to two lakes: Eagle and Symphony lake. The hike was really nice, mostly because it’s so diverse. First we walked through boreal forest, then through a hilly landscape across the river and then we reached lots of big boulders that we needed to climb on. At the end we reached the lakes where we had a nice lunch.
Other hikes, but smaller hikes we did was the Thunderbird falls trail and the Hay flats trail at reflection lake. We drove out very early in the morning in the hope to spot some moose. But nope, haven’t seen a moose but we did saw a common loon. This is a incredible waterbird that makes a beautiful sound at night to call for his partner. Check it on Youtube!
Lot of mist in front of us, giving us an amazing scenic view. like we were driving in the sky.
Lot of mist in front of us, giving us an amazing scenic view. like we were driving in the sky.
Mat-su valley
The Mat-su valley includes Palmer, Wasilla, Hatcher pass, Matanuska Glacier and Knik. We stayed 6 days in Wasilla. It’s not the most prettiest town of Alaska, but we mainly stayed here because of its location close to the Hatchers pass and it’s the commercial center of the Mat-su Valley – nice for some shopping & groceries.
Again most of the days the weather was quite bad. But we had fun driving around and we found an American Junk yard. We were impressed by it. We don’t have that in the Netherlands and it’s just a typical American junkyard, like you see in movies. We decided to stop by and take a look. People working there asked us if they can help us, they were surprised and were laughing at us that we loved to check out his place. We thought it was a great place! They askes: “You’re amazed by this mess!?” He said: “Well enjoy yourself with all this junk”. At the end one guy who picked up cars with his forklift truck. asked us if we want to joy on a ride. “Hell yeah” we said and jumped on the truck. We lifted up cars and brought it to the car crasher. That was funny.
The other day Jaron surprised me with something funny, a ride on a small Alaskan train. The company is called live steamers and is run by volunteers. We went on a 45 minute train ride through the forest and along all kind of fun artifacts or little houses they made. We had a big smile on our face the whole ride.
Our visit at a Junkyard
Ride on a mini train
Gold rush era
A visit to Alaska can’t be without a visit to one of the old mining industries. This is a big part of the history of Alaska. We went to the Independence Mine Historical Park. This is the second largest hard rock mining industry of Alaska. An old mining town located within the Hatcher’s pass mountain range. It’s free to enter, you only have to pay a $5 parking fee.
The day we went is was pouring rain, but it suits this gold mining town well. It gave it a ghost town feeling, and that is what it has become in the end of the 40’s. It was really interesting to learn about the history of this mining industrie, how life was for the miners and their families and why it suddenly became a ghost town.
Here it comes, I’ll take you back in time…… Gold discoveries brought Alaska and the Yukon area to the attention of the world. A series of stampedes occurred over more than three decades. Drawn by dreams of gold, men and women from many places participated in an adventure that would change their lives. Only a few would become wealthy.
The first significant gold discovery was in Juneau in 1880. This discovery encouraged others to look throughout Yukon area (Canada & Alaska). After the Klondike in Canada many people tried to look for more in Alaska. The Nome, Fairbanks and Iditarod gold field were the largest, but between 1896 and 1914 gold was found in hundreds of places around Alaska. Mining changed Alaska. Many trails were blazed, one of them is a trail for sled dogs, wagons and a rail road from Seward to Nome. This became the famous Iditarod trail. This trail was used to transport goods and people. The trail’s use declined when in the 1920’s the introduction of airplanes came. The first running of the 1049-mile Iditarod sled dog race from Anchorage to Nome in 1973 rekindled interest in this route.
The Independence Mine historical park was a successful mining industry that was active for 10 years. First it ran for 5 years and was a brooming town. The aroma of fresh-baked bread from the mess hall, children playing ball outside while on the background you could hear crunch sounds of smashing gold and feeling the ground vibrating from the four-ton engine rolls out of the tunnel entrance to dump its load . This was just a normal day. After a work day the miners and their families went to the town’s for dinner and afterwards went to bed. But all of this came to an abrupt end during World War II. The Independence mine was shut down in 1943 after gold mining was classified as nonessential by law. Although the order was lifted after the war, internal struggles, rising production costs and the fixed price of gold ($35 an ounce) kept the Independence mine from achieving its former status. After 5 years everybody left and it became a ghost town.
There was a text at the museum what I think is a nice tribute to the miners that I would like to share: “Those holes in the mountain will stay there, and that’s the only monument that the miners will ever have – because they just kind of wander off the face of the earth. They’ll go back into the ground just like the buildings at the Independence – ashes to ashes, dust to dust, I guess. The miners, the buildings, and the whole darn thing. The only thing that will be left is the holes in the mountain that were burrowed in by various people. The names won’t be inscribed anywhere, but the hole will be there. It will be there for as long as that mountain lasts.”
Reed lakes
Finally there was a day of good weather. And a good one too: it was sunny and around 20 degrees Celsius. We woke up early and went for a full day hike at the Hatchers pass, called Reed Lakes trail. A favorite among locals. And we got to understand why!
First we needed to cross many overflooded trail paths, probably because of the heavy rainfall from last week. But we managed it with dry socks (at least the first part). First the trail was quite flat, but then we needed to climb on a muddy trail and rocks. 1/3 of the trail we reached a waterfall, that turned out to be one of many. Half-way we needed to cross a river on boulders, and when we reached the other end of the river we needed to climb on many more boulders. Big ones! That was kinda cool and exciting!
Time went by quick. After 3 hours of climbing up, over rivers and boulders, we arrived at the first emerald lake. We sat down and enjoyed the view for a while before we continued to the next lake. We needed to climb again, this time next to a beautiful waterfall. Finally we reached the top at the upper Reed lake, surrounded by snowy granite mountaintops. Good time for a snack and to take in the beauty. It was a long 7 hours hike, but was definitely worth it and became one of our favourite hikes.
Here some pictures of the amazing sceneries!
Birthday
On 11th of august in the afternoon I got a message on my phone: “ happy birthday!!”. Oh heck, back home it’s already 12 am, so I already turned 29. It was a strange feeling, becoming 29….almost 30 years. It feels old, an age where society expect you to have adulthood figured out. Well, I’m now travelling around the world and living my life. I think I did!
My boyfriend had some surprises for me the next day. I was so excited, I like surprises! He kept me awake till 12 am and in the morning I got a cupcake breakfast. Yummy!! And what did I got as a birthday present? Hell yeah, Axe throwing! Awesome! . It was really fun to do and we were quite good at it. At the end we said to each other: “Okay, one final throw!?” Jaron took it too literally – his axe broke)
Dog-sled-day
As a birthday present from my parents we went on a dog sled tour. We combined this with a visit to the Iditarod museum. That made it a dog-sled-day! Dog sledding is a big part of the Alaskan culture. It’s their state sport and before a way of surviving. The biggest dog-sled race, and arguably the most popular event in Alaska, is the Iditarod. Over 1,000 miles through harsh tundra and forest, over mountain passes and across river, from anchorage to Nome. The top mushers and their teams of dogs become local celebrities.
Wat to read more about our dog-sled-day? Click on the link below.
Scenic drive
We checked out early in Wasilla. Our next destination was less than 2 hours driving and we can only check-in after 4 pm. So we decided to kill some time on a road trip around the area. First we drove to the Matanuska Glacier, just to the viewpoint, because a trip on the glacier will cost us at least $200 and we need to be careful with our budget – we already past our budget, because it’s so expensive here in Alaska – Matanuska glacier is a broad blue river of ice, descending 12000 ft (3,600 meters) to its 2 miles wides face. We stopped at the Matanuska Glacier State recreation site. The drive was way more fun than the destination: viewpoint glacier. We had a nice view over the glacier, but still it was quite far away.
We headed out to another amazing drive: the Hatchers pass. But first: on the road, just before the hatchers pass, we stopped to look for berries. Its blue berry season and pciking berries is the thing locals do! Then we become real Alaskans. Besides I always wanted to eat and live from the wild. After looking for 10 minutes we found a secret entrance through the bushes and we found the berries!! Berrie picking was really funny to do and now we have some nice berries for our breakfast yoghurt – and they were delicious!
The Hatcherspass was an amazing and bit thrilling ride. The paved road ended and we were now driving on a muddy gravel path, across steep mountain cliffs, with no protection rails. Because of the rainfall it was quite slippery too. But we did fine and enjoyed a cool ride. And this is why I’m travelling: adventure!
My travel guide for your South-central Alaska trip
We stayed in Eagle River and Wasilla. I would recommend to stay in Palmer! Close to the Hatcher’s pass and Anchorage.
Anchorage
- Recommended duration visit: 2 days
- Best hikes: Eagle River Nature Center, mount Baldy, Thunderbird falls trail, Rabbit creek trailP, tarmigan Pass Trail, South Fork trail up to Symphony lake.
- Highlighted things to do: Anchorage museum, Alaska native Heritage Center, shopping at 5th Avenue, exploring Chughach state park, Kayakking at Eluktna lake, Turnagain arm.
- Best accommodation: accommodations are quickly booked because it's the city most people arrive when travelling to Alaska. The city itself is not so pretty. It's better to stay in Eagle river where you're close to nature and just a 20 minute driving distance of Anchorage.
- My favorite activity:
Mat-su-valley
- Recommended duration visit: 3 days
- Best places to eat: Evangelo's restaurant.
- Best hikes: Reed lakes,
- Highlighted things to do:
- Best accommodation: it's best to stay in Palmer, it's prettier, has more history and is closer to the highlighted things to do.
- My favorite activity: Dog sled tour, axe throwing and Reed lakes trail.